In this video I answer a question from one of my Facebook Fans about what settings I used to shoot waterfalls. Plus I give you a couple of Tips and Tricks and… a couple of traps too! Enjoy. Make sure you hit the subscribe button too!
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get a peeps been future I'll hear from on three legs common in this video I'm going to show you how to get as silky smooth waterfalls and what settings to use on your camera a couple of days ago I posted this picture here on my Facebook page so it's at the 22nd of August and I had a question from to look here from Samadi Rebecca killed here and Samadi asked me what she said she would like to know what my settings were and I promised I would make a quick video of my settings so Sumati could find out but not just some arty but everybody because I could ask these questions all the time so I'm just going to quickly flick over into my Lightroom catalog and you'll see that's the exact same photo there and not I'm going to do this I'm going to show you a few different ones as well I've got a few from that same location and and other locations in Tasmania if you're wondering where these Falls are by the lights Liffey Falls in Tasmania these particular Falls and before I do share my settings with you in fact now now I'll share my settings with you then I'm going to give you a couple of traps that you've got to watch out for when you're shooting waterfalls that's really important for you to keep an eye on so in this particular instance just so you know what I was shooting with I used my nikon d800 which is a great camera I was using the 14 24 millimeter lens which is like the maker of landscape lenses as far as Nikon world goes and well it's so good in fact I think Canon people buy adapters to use them on their canons that's how good a landscape lens it is and this is a testament to how great this lens is because to get this effect you have to slow down the shutter speed and you'll see if you look over here on the right-hand side under the histogram in Lightroom this is shot at point 8 of a second now that doesn't sound like a long time but it's long enough when the waters moving as fast as it was here point out of a second means I get the blurry water but everything else looks fine and to do that I've set my lens at f-22 on my camera at my aperture if 22 now that means I'm closing the hole in the lens living less light in which forces the shadow to stay up and longer because I shot this in aperture priority now you can you know you could do it in shutter priority if you wanted but I find the best thing to do when shooting something like this it's switched aperture-priority push my aperture all the way up to the highest number I can and see what it does and the lowest ISO by the way this is a shot at ISO 100 and see what it does see see what length it gives me if I can't get the desired effect using those settings then I'll get a filter out I'm going to show you a couple other photos and second we've had to get a filter out to get my shutter speed to slow down enough to get the waterfall effect now the couple of traps now that I've sort of explained it how you get these photos a couple of tips and a couple of traps first tip is you've got to shoot on a tripod if you're not using a tripod there's no way you're going to hold it steady enough because you know slow the shutter speed down has to be on a tripod my second tip and my tip I always use when I'm on a tripod is use a remote shutter release that way you're not touching the camera you're not going to bump it it's not going to blue you can sort of set up a composition stand went back and hit the button and away you go that's a good couple of tips there for you a couple of traps one of the traps we the waterfall just by the very nature of all this water rushing down I don't know if you've ever been near a big or a big waterfall but any waterfall but a big one you would know only look at photos of like the Niagara Falls they create a lot of wind and that's because the water displaces the air around it and it creates a breeze a very turbulent air and that turbulent air starts to move all the foliage around around the waterfall and so you're probably thinking but Ben what does that matter well if you're going to have a longer shutter speed that foliage is be kind of going to become blurry because your shadows open for longer the foliage is moving around a fair bit so that's one trap that you've got to watch out for and I'm going to tell you how to get round of that in a second the second trap is you'll see it's quite bright especially in the middle there that main part of the waterfall and the risk is that you could over expose them quite easily and that's a mistake a lot of photographers make when shooting waterfalls is they don't expose for those areas they just expect a care of the exposure you have got to check your histogram check your highlights and make sure nothing is blown out you know typically I will check my histogram and in waterfalls it'll always be bunched over to the left you don't want anything against the right hand side and that because if they blow out these highlights you won't be able to save it so always under expose and then you can bring the shutter is back up in post-production so there's the two traps one is buying it your highlights and the second one is not keeping it on the foliage because it can get blurry alright so I'll show you a couple of other examples and just saying an idea for it so this one here was point out of a second f-22 24 millimeter by 14 20 mil lens 24 my lens out rather iso:100 mom which way will it go I'll go this way so this is another little sort of cascade near that waterfall on the way down to it and I wanted to get the ring here with the foam and the pill like a little whirlpool more than I wanted to get the silky waterfall effect but same thing you'll have a look on the right here ISO 140 millimeters that's my 14 24 mm lens f-22 one second so it sort of gives you an idea that one second for that particular photo was long enough which one will go to next this one here this is also a few Falls same thing this one I'm actually standing in the water getting very cold feet you can see the shot at ISO 140 millimeters f-22 0.5 one second now if you haven't got a really good quality lens at f-22 you might find that it's not as sharp as you'd like and so the trick damaging I need to use you know filter of some sort so I'm going to show you a couple where of use filters now this one here's a place called Horseshoe Falls which is also in Tasmania and this one here you'll see it's a 2.1 seconds f-14 at 18 millimeters now shot this is my 16 to 35 millimeter lens switch lenses now the reason for that is because my I have an MD filter but it's screw one and the 424 millimeter does not take a screw-on lens so as where the 16 to 35 does you can see I've shot this one at ISO 200 and f-14 so this one's in full manual and I've made those adjustments once again got to be careful not to blow out the highlights if you look at the right hand side or the right hand full waterfall of the Horseshoe Falls here you can see it's quite bright in the bottom not quite blown out but very close to it so same thing under exposed and then bump up the shadows later on in post-production but ISO 200 80 millimetres f-14 2.1 seconds and the filter that i've used here is called a hoya ND 400 it's an 8 stop filter I know that sounds Jack this jaggedy in the basic fundamentals of it is it's like sunglasses for your camera lens and the ND 400 is such a dark filter that you screw on the top on the front of your lens it's like it's the same size as your lens screws on it looks black and for some cameras it's very difficult to use so you have to compose and focus before putting it on with my dear how did I'm lucky enough that the live view if I open the aperture right up so small F no but I can see enough to be able to focus and compose my shot but you may have to focus compose and then put the filter on and then you'll get this sort of a result now the last one I'm going to show you is one that I shot at st. if he falls again but this one here I've used the 16 to 35 millimeter lens you can see of its ISO 100 17 millimeters f/8 20 seconds so you know once again you can do lots of different things 20 seconds the reason of use 20 seconds is because I also wanted this for groundwater to be really in a soft and and luscious as well as the waterfall now what I did do in this photo I'll make him compare confession I cheated I took another photo that was at one 250th of a second or something like that nice and fast to get all the foliage nice and crisp and clear because it was very blurry in the 20 second shot so here I've blended the two photos together to give me this final photo and and that's a little trick for you there so hopefully that's helped you I'm sure it has go out and try shoot some waterfalls make sure you hit the subscribe button I'd love for you to stick around and I promise I'll bring you some more good videos Cheers