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Here is the third volume of my Ten Top Tips for Capture One Pro 12.
Most of the tips should also work on earlier versions too. I hope you find them useful!
HDR Effect 0:27
Even Sky 2:53
Export & Resize in Place 5:23
Output Sharpening 10:29
Colour Balance Tool Tip 15:45
Multiple Image Adjust 17:28
Master Control 19:19
Nik Collection 22:20
Colour Balance Tab 24:49
Temporary Slider Reset 27:34
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in this video I present ten top tips for capture one Pro vol 3 if you find this video useful then please give it a thumbs up and if you would like to see more then please subscribe if you would like to try or buy capture one pro then please see the video description for links now with capture one pro you can create quite an interesting HDR effect using a single image and multiple layers of high dynamic range so for this image the first thing I want to do is to just quickly set my exposure I think that's about right that'll do then off we go with the high dynamic range all the way up with the highlights and shadows and this has the effect of compressing the tones in the image tone compression is the basis of HDR and then go into the levels and bring in the blacks to make it look nice I think that's pretty good I'll just up the mids a little bit that's not bad at all so down to the clarity and increase the structure which introduces local contrast which is also a staple of HDR processing and there we go we have some HDR to increase the HDR effects just create another layer in the layers panel by holding the little + down then choosing new filled layer and then again back to our high dynamic range like so and they'll just max the highlights and shadows again again bring in the blacks I think that looks pretty good that's looking very HDR indeed and for the final touch I think I'll just add a load more structure then back to my background layer for some final tweaks I think I will reduce the saturation a tad and then adds a little vignette for effect and there we have it a haich-d our effect made with a single image in capture one pro and if you want to add more HDR just keep adding layers of highlights and shadows and if we take a look at the before and after there's before and after then we can see that even though we haven't used multiple images it's not a true HDR image it's still an interesting effect and could be useful here's a nice little trick to create an evenly blue sky as we can see in this picture we have a nice blue sky but it's very uneven I'd like it to be deep blue and even first thing I'll do to create the deep blue is to go to the advanced amp of my color editor select the color picker select a blue and then expand the range then make sure I've got all of the blue selected like so let's view the selected color range using this will turn everything else gray so that I can see the blue good all the sky selected now I can turn that off so I'm going to increase the saturation of the sky and bring down the lightness blue is nice here and here now I would like the whole of the sky to be an even blue all you have to do is select the skin tone make sure your color picker is active and click on the shade blue that you would like the sky to be then just expand out the selection here make sure I have all the blue selected and in the uniformity area just bring all of the sliders up to maximum and as you can see it's already starting to even out but it's not even enough yet so go to layers hold down the plus and Newfield layer then back to the color editor make sure your skin tone Pickers slept it and select the blue again expanded out whole range and again one two three max the uniformity controllers and there we go we've nearly got an even blue sky but we're not quite there yet so here we go again once more a new layer fill layer back to the color editor skintone tab picker and select blue expand the range make sure we've got all the blue and uniformity to maximum and bingo we have a lovely uniform blue sky here's before and after he turned a washed out uneven sky into something deep blue and even sometimes it would be useful to have a copy of your image in the same folder as your original image now this happens automatically when you edit with an external application but it could also be handy to create an image in the same folder just for further editing purposes without having to invoke an external application you may just want to have the ability to easily view them side-by-side now the way to do this is to simply export the image into the folder the original resides in in this case my session capture folder to do this just right click on the image choose export and variant all you do is make sure that the destination is the same as the source folder in my case the capture folder just click for the destination drop-down and choose folder now just navigate to the folder in my case my current session I got it here ready to go and then just choose the folder click select folder and now it will output to the same folder as the source image my capture folder next set your image name and to make sure that the new image appears side-by-side or underneath the original image in your library make sure it has the same name so going to our naming and from the presets here choose image name and click OK and as you can see it says image name and the samples says the image name plus the output postfix now all we have to do is to set our export parameters for the formats I will choose jpg but you could use TIFF etc and the quality is fine now the export height I'll make sure it says fixed so it's the same size now I'm creating a copy of the variance so it will contain the adjustments that I've applied to the original it will inherit the cropping or color and tone adjustments this method is basically exactly the same as choosing the Edit in function for your image but without actually opening an external application okay so that's all fine and that's all fine and click export and once it's finished there it is a copy a JPEG exactly the same just below the raw file in the same folder it's really handy for comparison and I can also right-click on the JPEG and choose open with rather than edit with so you open the JPEG with something like affinity photo which is really quick this is real time there we go really fast nice now I can do something with it let's put a really nice gorgeous black Sun in the sky I'll use mine really advanced art techniques here quit and save the changes yes and there I have it bingo my copy next to my original and of course I can right click and open with any application that I'd like I can keep reading this new image and always have it next to the old image not only can you export in place but you can also export in place but at a different size if I write to come my original image or I could right click on my new image and export that at a different size in fact that is what I'll do right click on the new image and export and variants make sure that the destination is the folder where the source resides where these ones are it already is image name I'm going to leave the same so that the new image appears next to the old image in the library I'll keep the formats as JPEG don't worry it won't overwrite this image it will just create another one of the same name but with an underscore one extension so that it will still appear next to the originals everything else the same but this time we pick scale and height I do mine by height but you could use width I want mono 80 pixels so I already have 108 in the box so I'll choose pics from the drop-down so my image will be 108 TP export and after a few seconds it will have completed the export and resize in place okay the complete dialogue and now I have a copy of a copy in the same place but this one is a different size if I go over to the information tab I can see that this is one 620 by 100 80 and click on the original which is 6000 by 4000 okay that's how we create a copy in place and also how we create a resized copy in place nice in this tip I'll show you how I perform output sharpening this time just for screen because I'm not going to be actually doing any printing here now this method allows you to preview your sharpened image on screen and also doesn't use the inbuilt output sharpening tools which I find a little cumbersome to tell you the truth okay so the first stage is to take a look at the current sharpening on the image with our hand tool if we double click on the image we can see that it's nice and sharp my sharpening at full resolution is very good I'm going to create a copy of this image a smaller version full screen for web viewing or screen viewing so I'll export in place from the previous tip so select export and then select variant make sure my destination folder is the same as my source folder my capture folder look at the previous tip on how to do that set the image name etc JPEG then scale and height and I want the height to be 180 pixels which I have set here you set the pixels from the drop down here and just type in your height now before I actually perform the export I have to make sure that the current sharpening that I've applied is applied to the image on output the sharpening from this image wants to be in the destination image so just go to adjustments leave on respect crop because I do want the crop on the image to be in the output image and I need to set sharpening to no outputs sharpening if you choose output for screen it will ask for a mount radius and threshold it will add further sharpening which I will only be able to see after the images output so you are effectively doing screen sharpening blind which I find a bit limiting and also the same applies for print you won't know so you have your output file and if you select disable all it will disable all of your sharpening even the sharpening that you have applied to your source image so the best choice here is no output sharpening this will not add any more output sharpening it will just include the sharpening that you applied during your image development okay so that's all sources so I'll go back to basic make sure everything else is okay our name is fine image name etc remember to use the previous tip to see how to set all this up and then I'll just hit export and after a few seconds we will have our exported image here we go here's the new image with the original sharpening okay let's take a look if i zoom in it's now 108 EP and it's nice and sharp but if I want to sharpen it specifically for this resolution make it really nice and crisp I can I can now sharpen for screen I can perform the screen sharpening on this new image so I'll just go into the details tab quickly reset the sharpening then bring my amount up then I'll add just a tiny bit of radius just a little bit let's say just not 0.3 the amount obviously is too much at the moment so again I can set my amount just to the small value needed now let's take a look it's going to be pretty difficult to see on YouTube as it's only slight sharpening if we look at before it's slightly blurry and after and it's nice and sharp and now this has the correct amount of sharpening for me for this image at this resolution and now if we use the slideshow to view its full screen like so there it is sharpened for output we have a lovely sharpened image at 1 or 80 P we now have one final step to create an image which you can upload or use we just need to output our sharpened image right click the image export variants I'm going to leave everything the same because in this case I want you to go back into my capture folder you could out put it where you want again I'll keep the name the same see the previous tip for how to set that and then on the adjustments tab no output sharpening so that it just includes the sharpening I've just performed the screen sharpening and export and it will creates another image our final image which includes the screen sharpening which I just performed if i zoom in like so we can see it has the screen sharpening from the previous image this image is now ready for the web or anywhere else where it will be viewed on a screen here's a cool little tip a little input tip I only found this one recently accidentally a little tip for the color balance tool if you want to play with the color balance tool the shadows and mid-tones and highlights etc let's say for instance you want to set the shadows to be red like so and then you maybe want to make it darker you would normally move the points and the sliders like so just move them around with your mouse but you can actually move every one of these controls with your mouse wheel so that you can really easily perform single value adjustments if you place your mouse anywhere over this curve here just hover your mouse there and move your mouse wheel it will move this saturation up and down and not at a time I think that's really cool capture one really has this input stuff covered and also if you put your mouse anywhere within this circle and move your mouse wheel up and down it will do exactly the same thing place your mouse on the outside circle and move your mouse wheel and it will change the hue like so and it also works for the luminance if we place our mouse on this semicircle and move the mouse wheel the shadows will get lighter and darker and it also works on the others the master and mid-tones and lightness etc really cool here's a really nice handy little tip to make life easier you can auto adjust or reset multiple images at once let's have a look if I select all of these images click the first one then shift-click the last one now we have four images selected now if we click on reset adjustments on selected variants it will reset all of them they've all been reset oh we could select a variety of images hold control or selecting images to pick out the individual images you would like to select this time I've selected three and if we hit the auto adjust button they've all been Auto adjusted it's also adjusted the images that I have selected and now I can reset these three selected just by hitting the reset button and it also works with if I just select a couple it also works with individual adjustments adjustments with the little a in the menu like sir if I go down to the levels for instance and hit a it will set the levels on both of these selected images and if I hold ctrl and press R on the keyboard it will reset all the selected images and if I select all of them again and go to maybe exposure hits a it will automatically set the exposure on the selected images you can use auto adjustments from some individual panels or the global auto adjust or reset multiple images at once cool here's a nice quick tip that could help you out with your editing sometimes you may find that when you're editing you overdo the edit and it'd be nice to tone it down a little bit but you're stuck you've created your edits and without going into every single slider and panel you can't just dial it down there's actually a really easy way to achieve this perform your color edit on a layer hold down the plus in the layers panel and click new filled layer now you have a layer and on that layer we will do our color edit let's just name the layer something like coloring I'll just do my color edits on this new layer okay so let's just go in and do a few things let's do the highlights and the shadows I've overdone the recovering of highlights but that's okay so let's just bring in the blacks and the whites on the levels panel and then I'll up the saturation no let's say a days gone by and I've left it there are come back to the image and I've thought oh that looks a little bit overdone and I want to dial back the whole of the edit I like the Edit but it's just too much well I just go to the layer click on my layer and bring down the opacity I can just dial back the edit until I'm comfortable with it and of course you could give yourself even greater control if I just reset this image you could go half way I'll just add the filled layer as before like so and then set the opacity to 50% okay so we'll just do an edit make it a little bit extreme play with these shadows and highlights a little bit and again we'll just play with the levels a little bit bring in the blacks and the whites I think that's about fine in the color balance I'll just bring the shadows down then maybe I'll make it nice and summery by adding orange to the mid-tones then up highlights to give the image a little more pop and I think while I'm here I'll add a little more saturation then when I come back to the Edit I may think it's either underdone or overdone all I have to do is go to my layer and if it's underdone increase the opacity and if it's overcooked I'll decrease the opacity so by using a layer and using the layers opacity slider you can have complete control over the impact of your edit I think that's pretty handy in this tip I'll show you that it's perfectly possible to use the Nik collection with capture one Pro now owned by DxO it used to be owned by Google all I have to do is right-click on the image in the library pick edit with and it doesn't appear in my list at the moment I don't know why so I'll just browse and then navigate to the location on your drive where the Nik collection resides on mine its Program Files DxO Nik collection and at the moment I'm in color effects Pro 4 and 64-bit I'll click back to Nik collection and there you can see the various Nik collection modules there in the Program Files DxO Nik collection this time I will use color effects Pro 4 so click into color FX pro 4 and then I'll choose the 64-bit as I have a 64-bit machine and then double click color effects Pro for direct C then set your size etc I'll use TIF 16-bit and just click open and you see capture one creates the image opens the Nik collection and after a few seconds your image appears in this case in color effects pro 4 and now I can use the color effects filters we'll start with one of my favorites which is Pro contrast just for this demo whack it up to maximum then we'll add a new filter and I think we'll add detail extract or and we'll just set it to something reasonably sensible about there then we'll make it large large details and that will do for now so I'll just hit save like sir and there Nik collection will save the adjusted image back into the source folder where it will eventually appear back in capture one pro and this does take a little while a few seconds it's having to compile the new image and then export it it is worth the wait though as the Nik collection has some fantastic effects which you just can't achieve within capture and there we go the image is here as you can see there are our adjustments made within the Nik collection the color balance tool can be a little fiddly to use sometimes let's take a little look at it here now let's start with the 3-way view in the 3-way view the controls are very small they're a little fiddly to use and obviously not as accurate as if there were bigger or you have the individual controls where you select your master shadows mid-tones and highlights etc and they're great they're nice and large but you have to keep switching between them which slows you down and you also don't have them next to each other for reference you can create yourself a custom tool tub which makes this job much easier all we do is right click up here like so and then go to that tool tab and then select custom tool tab at the bottom now type in the name of this new tab I'll just call it color balance and then from the icon drop down here choose yourself an icon I'll use the one then go over to your newly created tab and click on it and now we can populate this tab with tools we can have more than one of the same tool on one tab if we right click within the tab and then select our tool we'll choose color balance and do the same again right click at tool color balance and once more right click Add tool color balance now we just go to our individual color balance tools and set one to shadow here once mid-tones and one to highlights and voila we now have the three separate color balance tools shadows mid-tones and highlights so now I can alter the highlight color like so and I can go into the mid-tone color if I feel like doing so and maybe alter the mid-tone brightness and I can also do the same with the shadows let's give this one nice deep blue shadows and the great thing is I don't have to perform multiple clips and waste time switching between them they're much easier to use and it's quicker to switch to a single tab than to switch constantly between the shadows mid-tones and highlights when I'm making multiple fine adjustments to my image nice and now here's a final quick tip from a viewer called Mike asked who was kind enough to let me know about this in the comments so I thought I'd share it with you guys since Mike let me know I found it extremely useful and use it all the time if you left click and hold down on the name of any slider it will temporarily reset the slider whilst the mouse button is held down let's do it with the highlights like sir to its default of zero and back to my setting of 100 send me the shadows zero is the default let go back to 100 go to structure left button down default zero let go and back to my value I think this is really good you can instantly check the effect of a single slider