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I often get asked how my photos look so “sharp”. I don’t use any special sharpening methods or techniques, it all comes down to the way I work in camera. We all know that the more you get right in camera, the easier it makes your editing. Hopefully you learn something today about get super sharp photos.
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SETTING BACK BUTTON AUTOFOCUS
1. The settings can be found in Custom Function III (C.FnIII),
2. Scroll to screen 5 for custom controls.
3. In that menu, set the shutter button to “metering start.” (Turning if OFF of AF Start is what removes the focus function from the shutter, and this is a crucial step!)
4. Set the AF-ON button to “metering and AF start.”
1. Choose Menu – Custom Settings – Pre-AF – Off
2. Choose Menu – Custom Settings – Custom Key Settings – AEL Button – AF On.
3. Choose Menu – Custom Settings – Custom Key Settings – AF/MF Button – AF/MF Ctrl Toggle.
4. Choose Menu – Custom Settings – AF w/shutter – Off.
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hello wonderful human being Sheldon Evans here and in this week's video we're gonna be going over five ways to make sure that your photos are super shot I often get asked why my photos look so sharp on Instagram so today I thought I'd released some of those secrets for you guys that you too can have razor-sharp photographs so let's jump right into it alright so the first tip we're going to talk about is back button autofocus now you may have heard about this before but it's the very first thing that I do when I take an in camera out of the box and start to shoot it with it usually what you do is if you're shooting you half press the shutter button and that will give you an exposure and focus reading and then you press it all the way down and that takes the photograph what we're gonna do is separate those two functions for better control sort of like aiming down the sides of a gun and then pulling the trigger that's the only way I can describe it from playing computer games so that's essentially what you're going to be doing on our camera I prefer to change the auto exposure lock button into my back button focus on a canon camera or on the sony a7ii which is what i'm shooting on right now I set it to the joystick that way I can move my focus points around with my thumb and then just click it down and get the focus wherever my focus point is it makes it a lot easier and I don't have to take my fingers off of the camera in order to move around my focus points before we move on to the next tip I just want to take a second to thank this week's sponsor which is Squarespace I've had a Squarespace website for ever I absolutely love the platform it's super easy and simple to set up and create your own website if you're a photographer videographer or anyone in the creative field they simplify the process more than you ever create yourself I set up my entire website in a few minutes I'm able to showcase my work sell prints and share behind the scenes blog posts of my shoots on my website they have over 30 started templates for you to set up and start using immediately so if you're ready to start a new business maybe you want to sell your photographs online or you just want to showcase your work make it with Squarespace go to squarespace.com forward slash Sheldon to start your free trial and to get 10% off of your first website or domain but more on that later because we need to get back to making our photos razor-sharp next time we're talking about aperture now we've spoken about aperture thankfulness channel but if you need a little bit of a refresher it's basically the opening inside of your lens that lets light and now the wider that opening is the shallower depth of field is going to be so shooting at something like f 1.2 will be a super wide aperture letting a lot of light in and a super shallow depth of field the only problem with this is that a lot of your photo is out of focus and the part that is in focus is likely to be soft that is because lenses aren't designed to be shot wide open especially cheaper lenses like a canon fifty one point eight or an 85 one point eight versus the L glass like the 135 f2 or and 85 F 1.2 lens those lenses are designed to be shot wide open you pay more for the glass so that you're able to do that so if you can't afford expensive lenses all the time stop your lenses down so if you're shooting on a fifty one point eight maybe try shooting at f/2 or if two point eight that means that you'll have a little wider depth of field but the part that is in focus is definitely going to be in focus you're not going to be losing the part of your image that should be in focus just because you've decided to shoot wide open there's been so many times with I've shot and I know that I've nailed their focus I'm focusing on that person's eye that focus point is right on their people and I get home and I try to edit my photos and I'll zoom it and you see it's completely out of focus this happens because you shot wide open and you just were risking it so if you like to live dangerously then go ahead and do that but if you don't and you want to shop images all the time stop that lens down and start shooting at small apertures as a bonus tip when you start stopping your lens down and shooting at small apertures you have to focus more on your background and really work on the composition of your photo because the whole background is not going to be blurred out you have to think about what is behind your subject and it forces you to compose your photos in a better way and improve your composition overall so you can start transitioning from only shooting portraits to shooting portraits and wider shots and fashion and stuff like that photography is all about challenging yourself as long as you challenge yourself on a daily basis you're gonna force yourself to get better your photos are going to improve and people are gonna start liking your work more and more and tip number three is minimum shutter speed I've seen tons of photos ruined by shaky hands you might think that you have the shakiest hands in the world but I promise you it's just because you don't know the focal length mrs. shutter speed now focal length and shutter speed are directly related to one another if you're shooting on a 50 millimeter lens your shutter speed needs to be at least one fiftieth of a second or faster if you're shooting on a hundred millimeter lens your shutter speed should be 1/100 of a second best comparison I can give you is with a laser pointer if you have a laser pointer and you shine it on the wall directly in front of you and can you look pretty stable no matter how much you move your hands it's not going to shake around too much but if you take that laser pointer and point it across the street at your neighbors then shine it in their eyes but just just shine it on their wall you'll see that the movement is exaggerated no matter how hard you try and hold that laser stable it's gonna jump around that wall and bounce around and now the same thing happens with your lens for your camera longer your focal length is the more your camera shake is exaggerated so try and keep your shutter speed as high as you possibly can in the situation that you're in like I said ideally it's gonna be exactly equal to the focal length of your lens but if you can increase it even further then do that because there's nothing worse than having blurry images because of your own shaky hands keep in mind that if you're shooting on a crop sensor camera the focal length on your lens is not exactly what it is on your camera it's multiplied by the crop factor of your camera so if you're shooting on a 50 millimeter lens you need to multiply that by the crop factor of your camera say the crop factor is 1.5 which makes that 50 more an effective 75 millimeter lens so you also need to multiply your shutter speed by that crop factor so a 50 millimeter lens on a crop camera would actually be a 75 millimeter lens meaning you need to shoot at at least 175th of a second or faster so when you're shooting on a crop sensor camera just make sure that you multiply your minimum shutter speed by the crop factor of the camera as well moving on to the next tip we're going to be talking about focus points and focus point selection now depending on what camera you have there's a few different options for this but I recommend spot autofocus or single point autofocus the reason I do this is that your camera has a smaller area to sample from the user camera doesn't have artificial intelligence it's not the future it doesn't think for itself yet it doesn't know what to focus on so if I put up my hand here my camera doesn't know that it wants me to focus on my face instead of my hand so it might focus on this is there if I'm looking directly at the camera it might focus on my nose instead of my eye because it's closer to the camera so depending on where your focus point is that's where your camera is going to focus now if you have a single focus point on your camera you can move that focus point around and tell your camera exactly where it should focus so you can move it over your eye and tell it to focus on your eye you can move it over your forehead and focus on your forehead if you're ready 1 2 unless you're using a camera like I'm using right now which is the Sony a7 3 I've got my autofocus turned on which means that if it sees a face in the frame it automatically focuses on the eye which is what it's doing right now because I can't see what the camera is seen but if you're behind the camera and you're shooting you have control of those focus points so moving around and select a single focus point and work from there I usually set one focus point directly in the center of the frame and then I focus my camera and recompose the shot but you have to be very careful with this and make sure that you don't move too much so that you change the field of focus remember that your focus is a single flat plane so if you move your camera around that field of focus is going to change position and for the final tip we're going to be talking about the distance between you and your subject the closer you are to your subject is shallow your depth of field is going to be so it's going to be a little bit more difficult for you to get everything in focus so if you're up in your models face focusing right on their eyeball it's going to be a very shallow depth of field but if you move a little bit back to get their whole face in the frame you're more likely to get more of their face in focus as well so ideally you want your model to stay in one position and you move back and forth as the photographer that way you get to control how shallow you'll feel the focus is this also takes us back to our previous point which is the plane or focus that your camera is on so make sure that you keep your camera level at all times so that your planar focus doesn't shift too much as you're moving around especially if you're really close to the model you have that shallow depth-of-field as a bonus tip when you're focusing on your model focus on the eye that is closest to be camera if someone has angled away from the camera and you focus on eye buddies in the distance it's gonna look slightly off and that photo is gonna look kind of weird because if you're standing in front of someone in real life you're not focusing on the back of their head you're focusing on their eye or the part of their face that is closest to you and that's at five super simple tips to get you super sharp and crispy photographs every single time you shoot if you're using any of these tips or have used any of them in the past make sure you drop a comment below and let me know or if you have other tips that are cool because my tips aren't always the greatest but if you have another tip leave a comment down there as always thank you so much for watching and I shall see you in the next video Cheers you